Villa Sant’Andrea a Belmond Hotel in Taormina Sicily Review

Villeggiatura is an Italian concept that loosely translates to “resting in pleasant places.” It’s been practiced since the Ancient Romans started leaving the city to spend long periods by the coast or in the countryside for that “endless summer” feeling.

Taormina taught me the meaning of this before I knew the word; the perfect Sicilian town drew me in more than a decade ago, and not only did I stay a while, I took a sabbatical and moved there to work on my travel writing (and my Italian) shortly after my first visit. I’ve returned most years since, and I’m getting married there in the fall. 

Amid all my villeggiatura practice in Taormina, I’ve become a bit of an expert tour guide. I’m quick to recommend a restaurant in town, a bar, a hike, a cultural site, a secret viewpoint, or where to find the best cannoli and arancini. Still, when friends ask me a seemingly simple question — whether they should stay down by the beach or up in the historic center of town — I find it difficult to answer. My honest opinion is that they should do both… and if they don’t have enough time, they should stay longer. 

Of course, not everyone who asks for my advice is an Ancient Roman aristocrat on extended holiday or a 25-year-old budding travel writer who can pick up and move to Taormina. So on my most recent visit I consulted Giovanni Nastasi, general manager of Villa Sant’Andrea, a Belmond Hotel. Villa Sant’Andrea is perched directly over the water, so Nastasi might be biased, but he came to the seaside retreat from Grand Hotel Timeo, also a Belmond Hotel, up the hill.

A completely different but just as beautiful experience, the Timeo requires a complimentary hotel shuttle or scenic €6 cable car to the beach but is just steps from the ancient Greek Theatre and the main drag of Corso Umberto. 

“Choosing between staying down by the beach or up in town ultimately hinges on personal preferences and what kind of experience one is looking for,” Nastasi told me. “Staying down by the beach offers tranquility and immediate access to sea-related activities; it’s ideal for those looking to unwind and have a resort-style holiday where relaxation is paramount.”

But, like me, he wavered a little. 

“On the other hand,” he continued, “staying up in town provides easy access to cultural sites, restaurants, shops, and bustling street life, which may appeal more to those seeking an immersive cultural experience amidst historic surroundings.”

Ultimately, I maintain that splitting time between the two Belmond properties makes for the perfect trip, but Nastasi concluded the seaside is his top pick for a more secluded stay that still offers easy access to cultural sites.

As my fiancé and I stood on our balcony at Villa Sant’Andrea, drying off and watching the turquoise waters of the Bay of Mazzaro lap gently against the smooth rocks we had used as a diving board moments earlier, I could see Nastasi’s point. The arrival of the brand-new, aptly named, Lido Villeggiatura beach club — the first of its kind for the Belmond portfolio — certainly helps his case. 

The Beach Club

Lido Villeggiatura opened in June and instantly drew a crowd with its leisurely blue-and-white-striped umbrellas, Sicilian ceramics, and plush cabanas. All-day programming encourages guests to stay a while, from sunrise yoga and paddle boarding to afternoon boat cruises and snorkeling excursions.

Later on, guests can enjoy sunset aperitivi, live music, and cinema nights under the stars. It’s a setting that manages to feel at once glamorous and low-key, like you’re at a posh friend’s summer house, which makes sense since the villa was an English family’s summer home until it became a hotel in the 1950s. As Nastasi puts it, “Lido Villeggiatura brings a fresh and refined experience to Taormina, balancing luxury with the relaxed charm of seaside living.” 

All guests get complimentary access daily until the beach club closes for the season on Nov. 3.

The Rooms

Villa Sant’Andrea hosts an intimate 67 rooms and suites, ranging from 215 to 861 square feet. All have luxurious marble bathrooms and terraces with sea, garden, or courtyard views. The standout Ionica Pool Suite boasts two bedrooms and a pool built from black lava stone from Mount Etna, plus a private gazebo and solarium.

Our Premium Seaview Suite had an elegant, sand-colored living room decorated with Sicilian ceramics and turquoise accents that perfectly matched the bay glistening through the arched doorway that led out onto our furnished, panoramic balcony.

Food and Drink

There are three seaside restaurants at Villa Sant’Andrea: Brizza, an exclusive 16-seater with two tasting menus (land and sea) served with unique Etna-region wines under romantic woven lanterns at the shore’s edge; Ristorante Sant’Andrea, where an ever-evolving menu features seasonal produce and fresh-caught seafood; and Brace, a more casual coastal grill at the newly renovated Bar Sant’Andrea. The stylish beach bar also has its own fresh fish station, along with an impressive selection of Etna wines and creative cocktails with hints of Sicily (think pistachio and orange blossom).

“For lunch, dining alfresco on freshly caught seafood would be on the menu at Brace Grill or Ristorante Sant’Andrea, followed by either a relaxing spa treatment or exploring nearby Isola Bella Nature Reserve,” Nastasi said when asked how to plan the perfect day at Villa Sant’Andrea. “As evening approaches, they could sip on an expertly mixed cocktail at the beach bar of Lido Villeggiatura or Bar Sant’Andrea while watching the sunset from one of our terraces, before heading out to enjoy Taormina’s vibrant nightlife or opting for a gourmet dinner under the stars at the pieds dans l’eau restaurant Brizza, directly by the water’s edge.”

Activities and Experiences 

In addition to an infinity pool and the aforementioned boat cruises and water sports offered at the new Lido Villeggiatura beach club, land-leaning guests can have fun learning new crafts such as ceramic painting or mixology.

A complimentary shuttle takes guests between Villa Sant’Andrea and sibling hotel Grand Hotel Timeo, making it easy to get into the heart of town. For those looking to go a little farther afield, an on-site concierge can arrange wine or history tours — or even outings to a Sicilian clam farm that includes lunch at the home of a local fisherman.

The Spa 

Massages, facials, and body treatments using fragrant Sicilian scents such as jasmine, prickly pear, and orange blossom can be enjoyed in the garden spa surrounded by lush greenery, or in a beach cabana right on the sand.

Don’t want to leave the privacy of your room? That’s an option too. If your idea of “me time” happens in the gym, instead, a fitness center is stocked with Technogym equipment, a luxury Italian hotel staple. 

Accessibility

Wheelchair-accessible rooms are available upon request. Parts of the historic property’s grounds may be difficult to navigate, though an attentive staff is on hand to help guests of all abilities. 

Location 

Villa Sant’Andrea is located overlooking the beautiful Bay of Mazzaro in Taormina a Mare. It’s a three-minute walk to the Taormina-Mazzaro cable car station, which takes you up into town and back for 10 euros round trip. Another option is the free shuttle that runs between Villa Sant’Andrea and Grand Hotel Timeo; the drive takes about 10 to 15 minutes.

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay 

Suite bookings come with daily breakfast, airport transfer, an aperitivo at Grand Hotel Timeo, and a €400 credit that can be used toward food and beverage or a spa treatment. Children under age 12 can share a junior suite or suite with their parents in their own bed free of charge.